In Defense of the Mock-Up
I think the most important aspect of sewing clothes is often forgotten: the mockup. Now I hear you saying, what’s a mockup? Well, that’s simple. A mockup is like the rough draft of an essay or the rough sketch of a drawing but for sewing!
Whenever you get a brand-new pattern, it is best practice to make a messy version out of a cheap fabric before even touching your final fabric. Messy does not mean wonky stitches or unpressed seams. Messy does mean that your edges aren’t finished, a collar may be top stitched on, no hem, and certainly no zippers or enclosures. For example, when Jacquie wanted to make her son Victor a suit coat for his grade 8 grad, she made sure to make a sleeveless mock-up to test the lapel shape, and the fit of the armsyce (pictured).
So why should you make such a wonky thing? To test the fit, of course! Your mockup allows you to try the pattern on your body and make alterations so that it all fits perfectly. After marking up and altering your mock-up, you can transfer these changes to your pattern in a fancy fabric. A mockup offers the chance to make any changes you want to your design with low stakes and no fear of wasting pretty fabric.
Now, a mockup is not going to become its own wearable garment. I mean, if the pattern turns out perfectly and you don’t need to make any alterations whatsoever, then it could be. However, I prefer to not pressure my mockup into becoming something it’s not. This freedom allows me to make the project quickly and messily. Then, I can focus on just the parts that need to fit me; for example, I might only make the bodice of a dress and not worry about the skirt. Also, if the project is just a mockup, then you are free to draw all over it! Easily visible pencil lines make transferring the alterations to the pattern process much easier! Remember, your mockup is an exercise, not a second project.
Others may say that mockups that aren’t wearable are just a waste of fabric. I vehemently disagree with that. Mockups are integral not only to the final fit of the garment but to your growth as a sewist! Practice, practice, practice makes perfect, right? Well, what better way to practice than to make your garment twice, especially if there is no pressure on your first attempt. Also, mockups are a great use of old fabric that would only collect dust in your closet anyway.
Others will argue that mock-ups take much too long. In the long run, making a mock-up will probably save you time! Or will at least extend how long your project is wearable for. Have you ever worked really hard on a piece, really put in the sweat and tears, but when you finished the project, it didn’t fit properly? Suddenly, all that time you spent was wasted. Or you may only wear the project once or twice rather than as often as you would have liked.
All that time was lost because of a poor fit. Well, that’s what a mockup is for! By spending a little extra time, you can double-check the fit, make alterations if need be, and end up with a good fit for years to come. Furthermore, once a pattern is altered to fit you perfectly you’ll never have to change it again. You can remake that pattern countless times and save yourself time in the future.
In my opinion, mock-ups are essential to the sewing process. Mock-ups are a phenomenal exercise for fit and sewing practice. Not a single moment of mock-upping is ever wasted in the long run. For example, see how well Victor’s suit jacket turned out in the end! (Pictured)
I wish you luck in your mockup endeavours! May you never lose your pins, and your sewing shears ever be sharp!
Written by Madlyn Woodruff